Designer Spotlight: Kristin Nicholas

In 1984 Kristin Nicholas first joined Classic Elite Yarns as the Creative Director. Having since developed her own yarn and written multiple books, Kristin now lives and blogs in Western Massachusetts. We were thrilled when Kristin took the time to talk to us about her early days at CEY, life on the farm and the changes since her first foray into the knitting world.


Kristin Nicholas, photo courtesy of John Gruen

CEY: What's it like to be back at Classic Elite? I know there are some familiar faces here from your first position with the company.

Kristin Nicholas:
Oh, it is so nice to be back working with many familiar people. Although there have been many changes in staff and I must say quite a bit of growth since I last worked at CEY in the early 2000’s, I feel so many things are the same. CEY is still a bunch of very hard-working women (and Jim Doyle, my old friend and the “token male”) who have passion for the yarn business, for fibers, for yarn, and for color. My beloved old office is now housing the University of Lowell but as a company, CEY still stands for beautiful yarns in beautiful fiber blends and awesome colors with a creative presentation.


You were a big part of building the Classic Elite Yarns brand during your time as creative director. What was your vision for the company?

I joined Classic Elite in 1984 – at the height of a big knitting boom. I was 25 years old and just married. I was hired to take a company that specialized in handweaving yarns and bring it into the handknitting marketplace. CEY didn’t have many yarns that were suitable for handknitting. I chose to acquire yarns that would be perfect for handknitters – many of them chunky and quick to knit. I knew that we had to have good patterns and a large, fun color range in each yarn in order to lure in the knitters and develop a following. I also wanted to create a family/lifestyle feeling to the company and did this by featuring kids and adult women and men in our pattern collections photographing the designs in lovely locations so that knitters would want to BE the person in the image. I always made sure there was a mix of very easy designs and more complex and “aspirational” designs.

A few of Kristin's patterns from the CEY archives, available on Patternfish.com.

How do you see the brand's evolution since then?

I left CEY shortly before the latest crazy (good crazy, not bad crazy) boom in knitting. When I left, knitting was still in the doldrums and everything business-wise was always a struggle. Our daughter Julia was turning two and she had many health complications. Personally, leaving CEY was a big decision but family comes first and I could no longer keep up the creative demands of the job and stay sane. I have watched from the outside in as new yarns and product ranges have been added. I worked so hard to develop the brand and now I see CEY as one of the leaders in the yarn biz. It’s nice to see something I started carry on and blossom – sort of like raising a kid!

I like the fact that the company is still owned by a woman who understands the yarn business and the passion that knitters have. It is nice that when CEY changed hands when Pat Chew, the woman who I worked for passed away, that it didn’t go to some big corporate giant that ruined all that I worked so hard for. Big corporations often ruin companies they buy. CEY remains independent and woman-owned and able to pick up on trends and run with them on a moment’s notice.


Describe Color by Kristin in three words or less.

Luxurious, colorful, classic.

Color by Kristin and a few designs from Color By Kristin Book One & Book Two

Your personal style is very eclectic, colorful and worldly. How did you cultivate that style?

I grew up around handmade textiles – my grandmother was from Germany and she was an amazing needleworker – crochet, quilting, and embroidery (no knitting!). My mom fostered my interest in making things and always kept me stocked with good fabrics for my sewing projects and embroidery kits and threads. When I went to university I majored in Textiles and Clothing and I discovered ethnic textiles at small import shops (you could probably call them hippie stores). I was so drawn to the handmade stitches and colors in those kinds of products and identified with the makers in foreign lands.

photo courtesy of Rikki Snyder, rikkisnyder.com / houzz.com

Over the years, I have remained interested in handmade fabrics and things from around the world. I collect them and study them through books. I like to have handmade textiles around me whether I made them or someone from a foreign land made them. They just make me happy and although I don’t have the time nor the finances to travel the world, I feel like the colorful textiles I collect help me see the world in that way.

photos courtesy of Rikki Snyder, rikkisnyder.com / houzz.com

Your last yarn, Julia, was your baby (in name AND in fiber), and now you have Color by Kristin. Describe the process of developing your own yarn.

It is about the fiber. Without good fiber, a yarn won’t be good. Color by Kristin is spun of three different animal fibers and each serves a purpose:

  • The 50% wool gives CBK stability, sturdiness, and bounce back resilience. 
  • The 25% alpaca gives CBK its softness and lovely drape. 
  • The 25% mohair gives CBK its shine and awesome deep and lustrous color. 

It is a 3 ply yarn so it starts with a single yarn that is softly twisted. Three singles are twisted together to create the worsted weight yarn. CBK isn’t overly spun so it has great drape. It is a gorgeous yarn that is a little confusing to knitters. It looks plain and basic in the skein but then you knit with it and it flies off the needles smoothly and sturdily. It looks great in textured stitches like cables and is gorgeous for Fair Isle (two color knitting). A lot of my work is decorated with embroidery and it is so nice and smooth that it just glides through the knitted fabric. It also felts gorgeously and I love a good felting yarn.


How have you seen the knitting world change since you started, in terms of the demographic and the aesthetic?

When I began in the yarn biz it was always about the sweater – picking out the design and then making it. Now I feel like it is more about the process for many knitters, the joy of making something just for the creativity of using your own hands. I’m not sure I’m correct about this but I think that is why small projects like socks and hats and mittens have become so popular. As far as the aesthetic goes, it is all over the map now and things that wouldn’t have been commercially viable years ago now are. I’m just finishing up a book on knit and crochet sunflowers. I never could have sold that idea 25 years ago!


How about yarn shops?

I think yarn shops serve a great purpose in the communities that support them. Owning a yarn shop is a lot of work and most of the owners don’t make that much money. That is still the same as it was back in the 80’s. But the fellowship that develops among the customers and shop owners is still the same. They depend on each other and I am thankful that so many yarn shops keep on going and supporting the creative arts, especially in these challenging times.

Class at Kristin's farm, photo courtesy of Kristin Nicholas

Fiber blends?

When I began, cashmere wasn’t available commonly as a handknitting yarn. Now it is. Otherwise yarn spinning is pretty much the same as it was back then. Once in a while a new fiber will come out that everyone thinks will be revolutionary (like milk, soy, tencel) but then production problems happen and the “new” thing isn’t as great as it was touted to be and everyone goes back to the classics of wool, alpaca, mohair, cotton, and angora.


When did you start blogging? How has it changed your business?

I started my blog “Getting Stitched on the Farm” back in March of 2006. I was living out here in western Massachusetts far from my friends and family. I began the blog to share my family’s somewhat peculiar life on a working sheep farm.


The blog has become a great platform for me to share my designs, my love of color, and our honest to goodness sheep farm where there is a lot of life and death. It has changed my “business” for the better – by giving me the opportunity to speak from my heart and whoever is interested can listen or not. If you ever had told me ten years ago if I would be selling patterns via the ether and knowing people I haven’t ever met personally, I never would have believed you. It just blows my mind (but in a good way)!


How do you decide what colors to put together in your designs?

I knit and swatch everything before I write a pattern. It happens in the swatch and if it is wrong, I change it and re-knit. I have to see it physically to know it is correct. I intuitively have a feeling but I always like to be sure by swatching!

photo courtesy of Kristin Nicholas

What advice would you give a knitter (like me) who's afraid of colorwork?

Just do it! Get over your fear and give it a go. It isn’t hard and there will be initial stumbling points but what’s wrong with that. Try to loosen up and breathe. Carry your floats looser than you think you should.


If there is a typical day at Leyden Glen, what does it look like?

Coffee first. Julia heads to school and Mark heads out to check on the sheep that are grazing in about five different locations right now. I feed the chickens and sometimes get a walk in with the dogs.

photo courtesy of Kristin Nicholas

Then it is a matter of looking at the to-do list and working through the most urgent issues first. Deadlines drive me – whether it is a farmers market and pricing our lamb or a book or pattern deadline. And always the blog a few times a week. I look forward to blogging and writing about what I am interested in and working on at the moment. It isn’t very exciting – just like any job – attending to responsibilities and making things happen hopefully. I always cook dinner and the three of eat together every night. I read every night before bed and not e-books, paper books because I don’t have an e-reader. I like to turn pages.

photo courtesy of Kristin Nicholas

For more information, visit Kristin's Website and Getting Stitched on the Farm, where Kristin actively blogs about her day-to-day life on Leyden Glen Farm. Information about Leyden Glen Farm can be found at LeydenGlenLamb.com.

Kristin's yarn, Color by Kristin is featured in two new collections of designs, Book One and Book Two, both published by Classic Elite Yarns and available at Local Yarn Shops. To browse Kristin's patterns from the CEY archive, click here to visit Patternfish.com.

Fall Knitting



Designer Tonia Barry takes a stab at knitting one her own Fall 2012 patterns:


The original Dust of Snow cardigan, in booklet 9205 The Road Not Taken

This year I made a vow to get one piece from our Fall Collection on the needles and completed by the end of September. Every year I have the same plan but always manage to get off track with my daughters' back to school activities. This year I will not get sidetracked! I will be seen at every cross country meet, open house, and homecoming event working on my Dust of Snow.

Here is the beginning of my first sleeve, this was actually my swatch. Yes, I was too lazy to swatch. I figure I already swatched it enough when I designed it.

Dust of Snow in progress - photo take at first cross country meet of the season!

The sweater pattern is written so that the body is worked in one piece to the armholes and then divided for the fronts and back. Because I need this project to be portable I decided to work it in pieces. 

 Cheryl worked a sleeve first.
 
It's pretty easy to do this because the pattern gives you the number for both the front and back sections. No need to do any math. In my case I wanted a selvedge stitch for seaming so I added one extra stitch on either side of the back and one at the seam edge of each front. When it comes time to bind off for the underarm I will divide the number of stitches to BO by 2 and continue on my merry way, so that I can wear it as soon as the weather gets chilly. (If you are working size XS, S, or L, there is no problem working in pieces. Unfortunately, for sizes M and XL, the seam falls in the center of a large cable - I wouldn't recommend trying to convert the pattern for these sizes.)

 Vista yarn - check; size 7 needle - check; pattern - check:
Betsy is getting ready to cast on!

The original Dust of Snow was knit in Alabaster 6016, and that's the color Cheryl has chosen. I'm knitting mine in Peat 6076, and Betsy is about to start hers in Seal 6077. We'll keep you posted on our progress!
 





Remembering Chelsea


Chelsea Gable, the voice of Classic Elite Yarns, passed away in an auto accident on September 3rd. Chelsea was such a positive presence – she laughed a lot, loved her various jobs, and especially loved the yarnie-world.

At TNNA, June 2010

Betsy Perry, owner of Classic Elite Yarns, remembers when she first spoke to Chelsea about a job with CEY – Chelsea described herself this way:
I spent much of my adult life concertedly laying the groundwork for a future career in hospitality [where she held several significant positions]. That all changed when I picked up my first pair of knitting needles. I learned to knit in the summer of 2008 on a summer cottage on the banks of Lake Blaisdell, surrounded by three generations of knitters. I continued on the screened porch, in the car, on the train, at home, and sitting in restaurants and cafes. I consumed books, videos and blogs.
When I was hired part time at my local yarn store, my knitting career exploded; I was able to pursue my craft in a creative, colorful and expressive environment and my skill, knowledge, and creative boldness increased exponentially! During my days and nights of working in a restaurant, I often mourned the hours that could be spent researching knitting, talking about knitting, or actually knitting.
Chelsea joined CEY in early 2010 and worked on all sorts of projects – writing copy, overhauling the website, getting this blog up and running, publishing the Web-Letter and every other odd-ball project that came her way. She grew up in NYC and loved visiting there regularly, but she also loved Boston and camping in New Hampshire.

Posing for a Web-Letter photo (she didn't want to do it, but complied with a big smile anyway).

Everyone at CEY, whether they worked much with her or not was touched by Chelsea. A few of our favorite memories and stories follow – if you would like to share one of your memories of Chelsea, please feel free to do so in the comments.


Chelsea was a delightful, bright and beautiful woman. She was always upbeat no matter how much we would bug her with questions and requests and problems. She had a wonderful talent with words – her writing was fluid and clear and always entertaining. She had a smile for everyone and great stories to share. She will be missed here and in the world.
-Andi


I did not have the same interaction with Chelsea that most of our crew did. Mostly a greeting in the morning or a "Good Night" when leaving. And some occasional chit chat in the lunchroom. Chelsea was just so pleasant, upbeat and full of energy. Most of all she had the best great big smile, I am really going to miss that smile.
-Jim

Office knit-a-long, August 2011
In one of my last conversations with Chelsea she made me feel really good about myself with one simple line... We all know it's a little difficult parenting 17 year olds, because Chelsea sat the next cube over from me she couldn't help but hear me on the phone with my daughter who was being a bit difficult. After the call, she and I joked about the situation and Chelsea said you are such a calm and good Mom. Chelsea had a gift for making others feel good about themselves.

I am very glad that I told her that my work day was more fun when she was in the office. I will miss her terribly.
-Tonia


I would just like to say how warm and friendly Chelsea was. She would help me with my computer from time to time. I never saw her mad or upset, always upbeat. Chelsea, you will surely be missed.
-Terri

"I finished my Elizabeth sweater in time for VK Live!"

She was one of those people that made you feel comfortable to talk with right from the start. I enjoyed spending time with her both at work and personally. I felt when working on any project with her it was always a collaboration, never a confrontation or battle of wills.

I remember eating dinner, all appetizers, with her, Susan and Betsy one night at the end of TNNA and we all had a great time with many laughs. We got several funny looks from the tables around us because we were being loud and having way too much fun!
-Heather 



Chelsea and I would tease each other about our opposite sweater styles. She loved loose fitting sweaters with miles of stockinette; I favor fitted lace, cables and ruffles. Last week when I checked my ravelry friend’s activities, I noticed she had favorited a cute cabled tunic in Ariosa. When I saw her collecting Ariosa, I told her I knew what she was going to make and thought it was beautiful. She laughed and said she had already changed her mind and found a nice “boring” stockinette sweater to make with the yarn instead.
-Cheryl 



You're already sorely missed, Chelsea.
(She jumped up to take this photo – quick to avoid being in front of the camera.)

Chelsea had been working on a Liberty Wool Print pullover for a long time. She usually stuck with neutral, solid yarns so it was a huge leap for her. While knitting at the lunch table, Chelsea repeatedly broke the yarn, dug through a project bag of partial balls, carefully chose one, re-joined the yarn and continued knitting.

She was meticulously, row by row, matching the stripes of the printed yarn she was knitting with the other half of the sweater that was already done. It was hilarious and everyone poked fun at her. She took it all with a big smile and undoubtedly had plenty of witty one-liners ready in response. There are few instances where I've ever had more fun knitting.

I got to share much of my work at CEY with Chelsea, usually because she ended all of her e-mails with "can I help?".
Meg


She was our voice (online and more), and a shining light. We will miss her very much. Chelsea leaves behind a legacy of joy and creativity. She also leaves quite a few WIPs!

Are you ready?

No matter how much wool is on my needles, it doesn't quite feel like fall until the leaves begin to change.

Dust of Snow from The Road Not Taken

Are you ready?

Designer Spotlight: Tabetha Hedrick


Tabetha is the designer behind the Esmeralda Shawl, this week's free pattern featured in the Web-Letter, as well as multiple designs in our Spring and Fall collections. Learn more about Tabetha on her website and blog, and be sure to check out her other designs on Ravelry. Read on to learn about her creative process, how she got started, and to hear her advice for aspiring knit designers! 

Visit the CEY website to sign up for the weekly Web-Letter, delivering free patterns, news and more to your email inbox every Tuesday. 


Esmeralda Shawl in Sanibel, from Web-Letter 255

How long have you been designing?
I think I started designing in early 2010, so a little over 2 years now. How did you get started? It all began with an evil plot inside of Jill Wright’s mind… haha! Well, maybe not quite. I had been knitting for about 5 or 6 years and playfully tweaking and jotting notes to design patterns for personal use, so the leap wasn't that big. One cold, rainy day, as I was sitting inside McDonald’s, knitting happily away while my kids played on the playground, this lovely English lady, Jill (an amazing knitwear designer), plopped herself down at my table to pepper me with questions about my knitting and background. Now, anyone who knows Jill would be quite shocked that she came up to someone so boldly, but you can’t deny which way fate tells you to go. Anyways, she asked if I ever thought about designing, to which I replied, “Design what?” Jill – “knitting patterns for magazines like Vogue or Interweave.” Me – “You can DO THAT?!” Who knew that magazines and yarn companies work with little ol’ gals like me?!
Jill and I clicked right away. She handed me her card, told me I should email her sometime, and I promptly went home to do exactly that. I was eager and ready to unleash my creativity in a new outlet. Jill unwittingly became my mentor and greatest cheerleader as I put together my first proposal. Shortly thereafter, she pointed me in the direction of an online knitwear design class taught by Mary Beth Temple, who taught me so much (and also unwittingly became my other mentor in the field). The rest is still being written in the history books.

 What's the first piece you ever designed (not necessarily for CEY)?
 Probably the first thing I ever designed was my Anu Socks, but my first design that was accepted for “outside” publication was the Leaf Trim V-Neck for Creative Knitting Magazine.

Fortuna in Kumara, from booklet #9194, Serendipity

What is the timeline for one of your designs, from swatch to pattern to sample?
In this field, it has to be pretty quick! Once I receive the yarn for a project, I swatch (block, dry, and carefully measure the gauge!), and then immediately calculate and flesh out the main body of the pattern. Knitting begins right away and I can typically finish an intermediate sweater sample in about two weeks. Smaller projects, such as socks or cowls, can be done in about 4-5 days. I imagine I might even be a bit faster, but as a stay-at-home mom to two amazing (and energetic) daughters, as well as managing a household and all the duties THAT entails, I can usually only knit about 2-3 hours a day before I collapse in to bed.

Swatching in Fresco for Heiress

Approximately how many patterns do you publish a year?
Currently, I am in the 18-20 range a year, though I fully expect that to increase by the end of this year. Do you use test knitters? Yes and no. When it comes to independently published designs, I do, but in the magazine/yarn company field, often there isn’t enough time.

What is your "design process"?
My design process typically follows this path: First - inspiration from just about anywhere – silhouettes, fashion runway shows, stitch patterns, yarn, nature, woodwork. I never can quite anticipate when the muse decides to hit. Next, I throw those ideas on to paper. I sketch and sketch and sketch…. And that method alone often leads to more new design ideas. Sometimes, my sketches don’t go anywhere, but when I am ready to pursue a particular concept, I swatch with different yarns or stitch patterns to see what works best. Lastly, I dive head first into putting the entire concept together.


Where do you do your design work? What does your "creative space" look like?
Our home is quite small, so my “office” is located on the dining room table with notepads, sketch pads, and pens shoved into nearby shelves. My yarn, swatches, and knitting tools take up various places throughout the house (to the woe of my husband). Needless to say, I am insanely jealous of designers with their own space, craft studios, and offices.

Heiress in Fresco, from booklet 9191, Hill House

What is your favorite piece you designed for the Fall CEY collection? What was your inspiration?
I think my most favorite is the newest design in the Fall Collection – Heiress. I kept seeing these beautiful embroidered tops on the runway and thought it would translate well to lace, and it did! The raglan sleeve caps just pair so nicely with the diamond lace, while the ribbed collar and cuffs give just enough contrast without being too stark. I think the fit is just beautiful.


What advice would you give someone who is interested in knit design?
First and foremost, have a support system and keep your chin up. This is a hard, hard market to break in to, but as long as you carry yourself professionally, take constructive feedback well, and ignore the haters, you’ll be on the right road.

Unfinished Business


With over 130 pieces to photograph for our Fall 2012 collection, completing sample garments could be a little down-to-the-wire. Here, Kim binds off the sleeve on Lone Wolf, a pullover in Alpaca Sox from the new booklet Cascading Waters, while model Mackenzie looks on.

How to...Knit Pleats


Andi Clark's Comet sweater is the perfect transitional piece. Knit in Soft Linen, it features lace panels on the bodice, a cute seed stitch and lace collar, and kicky pleats flowing from an empire waist. The yarn is transitional too, combining wool, linen and baby alpaca in almost equal proportions in what Clara Parkes called "a perfect example of a smart fiber blend.".

The pleats are cleverly constructed, and when my coworker Cheryl suggested we do a blog post about it after puzzling through the instructions on her own, I thought it was a great idea!


Supplies: 2 DPN's, US 6, and your knitting (obviously).


1. Knit to within four stitches of your reverse stockinette section. Slip these four knit stitches to one DPN and hold in the front. Slip the next four purl stitches to the other DPN and rotate the needle clockwise.


2. Hold all the needles together and knit 3 together, one stitch from each needle, 4 times.


3. To make your left pleat, slip the next four stitches to a DPN and hold in the back. Slip the next 4 purl stitches to a second DPN.


Rotate it counterclockwise so that the RS is facing the stitches on the first DPN. Knit 3 together, one stitch from each needle, 4 times.


Voila! It's almost like you're folding it in on itself and "sewing" it together. Happy knitting!